Nepal

This is a difficult post to write, and one of the reasons I have been putting off blogging for so long.

As I'm sure you're aware, there was a huge earthquake in Nepal on 25th April. It measured 7.8 on the Richter Scale, thousands lost their lives, and many more were injured and left homeless by the devastation. Kathmandu, the capital, was one of the hardest hit areas, and images of fallen buildings and sacred temples flooded the headlines. Remote villages waited weeks for outside help, and many people around the country slept outside for days, as aftershocks rippled and they feared their homes were unsafe.

It was peak climbing season in the mountains; avalanches rocked Everest Base Camp, and 18 climbers lost their lives. Others were stranded at Camp 1, safer than their colleagues and friends at base camp, until helicopters could be organised to transfer them further down the mountain, with avalanches deeming the Khumbu Icefall - the only way down from Everest - impassable.

Although Nepal lies in the heart of the Himalaya, and is prone to tectonic activity, this was the largest earthquake in 80 years. Already one of the poorest countries in the world, it didn't have the money or resources to deal with such a disaster. Fortunately, aid quickly scrambled to their relief, with disaster charities from around the world arriving around the clock to help those in need. Fundraising efforts around the globe raised millions of pounds for various charities, and my faith in humanity was restored.

A second earthquake hit the region just a few weeks later, setting back the relief efforts, and terrifying those already affected. It was a dark time for Nepal, and it is only just beginning to rebuild itself almost two months later.

The reason I'm telling you all of this, is because I was supposed to be flying to Kathmandu on 21st May, less than a month after the earthquake. Those of you who have been following this blog for a while will know of my obsession with Everest, and I have been planning this trip for a very long time. I've had it booked once before, two years ago, when I had to cancel due to a highly unprofessional company, coupled with a lack of funds. I then planned to go in October 2014, but again had to postpone while I saved up a little longer. Needless to say, this was a trip of a lifetime.

When I woke up on Saturday 25th April, and heard the news, my heart sank. Not, I hasten to add, because of my trip, but because I knew how many people would be affected by this. I didn't quite realise the severity at the time, but I had friends and acquaintances out in Nepal, as well as work colleagues, and people I follow on Twitter. I was on tenterhooks the whole day, waiting for news that people were safe, and my sadness deepening as more and more images flooded the news sites.

Although I've never visited, I have read so many personal accounts of Nepal, and had done so much research for my trip, I felt like I had. I felt I knew all the places that had been so heavily affected, and felt deeply for everyone who had died or had been injured. When I realised that there was no hope of my trip going ahead, I was sad more for the missed opportunity to experience the country at its best; not for a cancelled holiday, as these things can always be rearranged. Of course I was disappointed, but it was very easy to see the priorities in life as I scanned Twitter, following those who had been personally affected.

I did allow myself a moment to be selfish, when I feared the insurance company wouldn't compensate me for my trip (they often don't if it's force majeur). Not because of the financial side, but because it meant that I would have to cancel the trip completely rather than postpone, and I would have to wait another few years to visit.

I am also very grateful that I wasn't there at the time, and that no-one I know was injured, or worse.

In the meantime, we fundraised at work (we work closely with partners based in Nepal - I was actually supposed to be visiting them on my trip), and I also set myself a personal fundraising goal, to give to long-term NGO relief efforts, as well as the immediate disaster relief we donated to in the office.

I was very fortunate that Emirates extended their refund policy based on FCO advice, and I now plan to postpone my trip until May 2016, purely because my plan was, and always has been, to visit and trek to Everest Base Camp during the climbing season.

Two months on, Nepal has declared itself safe and ready for tourists. Indeed, it is crying out for them as its main source of income. Frustratingly, the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office is still saying that they advise against all but essential travel to the area, meaning that if British nationals go against this advice, their travel insurance will be invalid. Fortunately, other countries around the world are much more sensible and I would love it, if you can, for you to go. I would go earlier myself if I could - most trekking regions are fit to travel after the monsoon (from September onwards) and lots of places, such as Pokhara and Chitwan, were barely affected. Don't make anyone else lose out because of this dreadful disaster, and don't alter your travel plans. Nepal is still stunning, and with your visit, you'll be doing more good than ever before.

As for me, my walking boots are waiting patiently in a cupboard, my daypack hung on the rack, and my trekking guide sat quietly on the bookshelf. Everest, I'll be with you next summer.



Image credit: Hillary Travels

Sangkhlaburi - Rural Thailand at its best!

On my whistlestop tour of Thailand, Sangkhlaburi was the place that I knew the least about. It's a big part of our Thailand Experience; travellers spend around a week here volunteering in the local community and trekking in the jungle, but it's not big on the tourist map so I went with a completely open mind. I was looking forward to it, but didn't expect it to be amazing.

Boy was I wrong! It was absolutely the highlight of my trip! It's around a 6 hour drive from Bangkok (definitely stop off in Kanchanaburi for lunch on the way!), and after Kanchanaburi it's an absolutely stunning drive into misty mountains that look like they've come straight out of a film set. For the last hour, you're winding up the mountains, with a different, more amazing view the higher you get, surrounded by rubber plantations and mist - it's absolutely stunning. 

Sangkhlaburi is a small town, right on the Burmese border. It's set along the edges of a huge reservoir (40 miles long), and is split into two sides - Thai and Mon. The Mon side is very quiet, with temples and houses and not much more. The Thai side is a little more modern, with a 7-11 and a couple of bars and hotels, but still very basic and pretty. The two sides are joined by a long, wooden bridge across the reservoir, or you can drive around the side. 

I was lucky enough to stay in P's Guest House, right on the edge of the lake. I wish I'd taken a picture of the room, but I wasn't really in there apart from to sleep; I can honestly say it's the nicest place I stayed on the whole trip. It's made up of several villas, or huts, right along the edge of the lake. The rooms are gigantic, with huge beds and amazing, western-style bathrooms. I had the best shower (and even had a couple of little lizards to keep me company). You can see right across the lake, with the mountains to the left, the Mon side of town (with the pagoda glinting in the distance) directly opposite, and the bridge joining the two to your right - both the sunset and sunrise are equally amazing, and definitely worth the early morning.

I got up around 6am, and sat on the steps in front of the lake to watch the sunrise. With the clouds lifting over the mountains, and the pale pinky, purple morning glow, and the temple in the distance, it's one of the most tranquil mornings I have ever had (at least until a Thai tourist came up behind me, complete with iPhone, and asked me to take a selfie of her, then started rabbiting on her phone completely ruining the moment!) 

You can rent kayaks and swim from the jetty at the guesthouse, and also pay for a moped or an elephant trek. I didn't have time for either of these, but I heard good things from people who did. 

There's a bar and restaurant (which I think closes relatively early) on-site, or it's an easy fifteen minute walk into town, where there are a couple of really lovely local restaurants. We went to a restaurant called Toys, where we had a massaman curry, rice and other bits and pieces, which I think came up to around £1-2 per head including drinks! We also visited a bar across the road called The Blue Rock. This is owned by an English guy called Lee - he's really lovely and easy going, and had a good, cheap selection of drinks. I think most tourists in town (fewer than 500 western tourists per year!) end up here or at the Western Bar, and it's a great place to relax after a long day. 

The main reason for my visit was to see the work that our volunteers do when they stay here. Sangkhlaburi has a lot of small communities, who live in the jungle and barely ever leave. They work for the owners of the rubber plantation (for a pittance) and while the men may go into town very occasionally, the women and children never leave. There's no electricity or running water, and no access to education, and so no way for children to break the mould. I was very lucky to go and visit a couple of these communities (Sam Pan Rai and Mai Tew), and whilst the lives are picturesque from an outsiders' perspective, it must be a very hard existence.

We visited in the dry season (and it had been dry for a couple of months); we tried to get to Sam Pan Rai on my first day, and had to turn around half way there because the car wasn't four wheel drive, and so couldn't make it up the slippy, gravelly slope. We'd persevered (and had a couple of Top Gear-esque hairy moments), but it just wasn't going to happen so we had to come back the next day in a different vehicle. The community is completely inaccessible in the rainy season (it's around an hour by car, never mind by foot!) and so they're completely cut off from the outside world for much of the time. 

Our volunteers spend as much time there as possible, helping the children get a basic education. It's not much, but even if they can speak a little English it may be enough for a child to find work in the tourist industry in the future. We're also helping to build a childcare centre for refuge children in the town. It was incredibly rewarding to see the work our volunteers had done; without them, the centre simply wouldn't exist! 

One of the highlights of my visit to Sangkhlaburi, was our drive to the Three Pagodas Pass. This is around twenty minutes from the main town, and allows you to drive right to the Burmese/Myanmar border! You're not allowed to cross it of course, but there's a sign for the standard selfie, and you can look across knowing you can see Burma! The Three Pagodas themselves are also worth a look, and it's definitely worth taking the time out to go here.

My favourite moment, apart from the sunrise over the lake, was driving up through the mountains for the first time, approaching the top and seeing the jungle, river and mountains spread out in front of me. Knowing that, into the distance I was looking at Burma, and closer into one of the most rural areas of Thailand, with some absolutely stunning scenery - well you can't get much better than that!

Bangkok on a budget with limited time!

                                                                                                                       

Time Spent - 5 nights, 1 full afternoon, 1 full morning
Modes of transport - taxi, sky train, coach, walking
Places stayed - Sawasadee Banglampu Inn (Khao San Road); Imm Fusion (Sukhumvit)

I recently spent two weeks in Thailand and Cambodia (with work and on holiday), and Bangkok was something of a base while I was there. I was never here for an extended period of time (I think 14 hours was my maximum), but I made the most of every second, and it's definitely possible to get a real feel of Bangkok on a budget - both monetary and time!

On my arrival into Thailand, and the subsequent nights when I returned from travelling to Surin, Sangkhlaburi and Koh Phangan, I stayed at the Sawasadee Banglampu Inn just off Khao San Road. There are three Sawasadee Inns in a small area; they're cheap (around £6 per room per night), very centrally located (30 seconds from Khao San Road, 15 minutes walk from the Grand Palace and the temples), clean and the staff are friendly. I didn't have breakfast here (6am is too early to eat!) but they have a breakfast every morning of fruit and bread etc., and it's only 190 baht (around £4) which isn't too bad. It's definitely the domain of the backpacker, and can get a little loud in the evenings, but overall I enjoyed my stay here, and would stay here again if I were to visit Bangkok.

  
(Pictures from Sawasadee site - I was generally too tired to take my own!)

I had a single room to myself (decent sized double bed, air conditioning, good shower and western-style toilet), although they're more commonly twin or triple rooms, and it's all you need for a good base on Khao San Road. It's close enough so that you can nip out to the many bars, restaurants and street stalls on the backpacker street, but far enough away that you don't get any of the loud music or the crowds (the noise at night tends to come from people returning from partaking in said entertainment).

On my first night in Bangkok, I was met by a member of staff from our partner organisation out in Thailand, and he took me out to Khao San Road for dinner and a couple of drinks (I didn't have more than one; jet lag + no sleep on the plane would have had me at risk of making a fool of myself, not a good first impression!). We went to a restaurant on a street parallel to Khao San (nicer, not as full of bars and stalls), then to the Silk Bar for a few drinks as it's cheap and cheerful. We sat on the balcony here, and it's a great place to people-watch! When I finally had to call it a day around midnight, it took me approximately four minutes to fight my way through the crowds and into bed - that's not a bad result!

I headed over to Surin overnight the next day, but returned to Sawasadee the next night, where I had a free evening before heading to Sangkhlaburi at 6.45am the next morning. As I had such a busy trip, and such early mornings for the most part (and because I don't really drink), I didn't really take part in the nightlife of Khao San Road (it's not really my scene), but from the people I spoke to, there are lots of great places to go out. I stuck to what I do best - food and shopping - and also spent an hour just wandering around all the little streets nearby. I didn't feel unsafe at all, and apart from one instance of a stall-holder grabbing me to try and make me look at his goods, I wasn't hassled. I'd expected it to be like African markets, where you're accosted from all sides, but because there are so many people on Khao San Road, the stall holders don't need to put so much work in - people are literally fighting to get to them! It was a refreshing change, and meant I could shop and actually buy things (something I rarely do in Africa, because I don't like being bullied into buying).

There are a couple of 7-11s on Khao San Road, a Boots, McDonalds, Subway and Burger King for those who are really desperate, but if you can, try things from the multitude of food stalls and restaurants lining the road. I steered clear of the scorpion, but the pad thai, chicken skewers, fruit (mango, watermelon and pineapple) and coconut ice cream are perfectly safe, and often a refreshing treat as you fight the humidity and 30C evening heat!

On my return from Koh Phangan at the end of the week, I checked into Sawasadee for the fourth time, and finally had a free morning the next day, before heading to Cambodia, to explore a bit more of the city! I'd tried to visit the Grand Palace a couple of evenings before, but it closes at 3.30pm, so forgoing a lie in I got up at 7am, and grabbed a quick breakfast from 7-11 before heading out to see as much as possible before I had to head to the airport at lunchtime.

The Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha were highest on my list, so I decided to head here first, then see if I had time for any of the temples afterwards. It's only around a 15 minute walk from Sawasadee (although I was glad it was early morning), despite having to fight your way across eight lanes of traffic, with drivers who don't seem to obey any road rules when it comes to pedestrians.

It was on my walk here that I was scammed for the only time during my trip, and I was livid because I knew exactly what was happening and I was powerless to stop it. I've travelled enough to know something odd when I see it, and around 5 minutes from the palace there was a woman with around 50 pigeons crowded around her. Suspecting something fishy, I tried to cross the road, but with eight lanes of traffic and no pedestrian crossing, it simply wasn't going to happen. I decided to just keep my head down and walk straight through the crowd, but she was having none of it. She threw pigeon seed around my feet so the pigeons descended, then forced the seed in open bags into my hands, so that half of it fell on the ground. She then motioned me to throw the rest of it in the opposite direction, so the pigeons would leave. Knowing I'd been well and truly had, I did as she said and tried to walk off, but she was having absolutely none of it; she and her friend circled me demanding 150 baht for the seed (around £3) and clearly weren't going to leave me alone. Luckily, I had around 40 baht (80p) in my pocket, meaning I didn't have to get my purse out, and I shoved it into her hand before marching away from her.

It put me in a bad mood for the rest of the morning; not for the money (even I don't complain about something as little as 80p), but because of the scam itself. I'd recognised it for what it was, and still been unable to avoid it. Fortunately, it was tame compared to others I've seen, and no harm was done, but for a first-time traveller (or anyone) it's not a particularly pleasant experience. Had she been selling something worthwhile (lots of people were selling cold drinks or crafts), I might actually have given her more money, but having it forced out of me left a sour taste in my mouth.

Despite the bad start, I thoroughly enjoyed my time at the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. You have to dress very conservatively as it's a very religious site; I thought I'd done ok wearing a dress that covered my shoulders and the tops of my arms, and almost went down to my knees, with leggings covering almost to my ankles, but it still wasn't good enough and I had to get a skirt to wear when I was there (leggings don't count as covering up apparently). I definitely wasn't the only one, and it's very quick and easy (they take a 200baht deposit, which you get back as soon as you hand the skirt or scarf back), but if you want to avoid it, err on the side of caution.

I'd given myself a couple of hours there to make sure I had time to get to the airport at lunchtime, but you could definitely spend longer there. The heat was relentless, even at 10.30am, so take it slowly and take lots of water with you. The cost for entry is 400 baht (around £8), and involves entry to both the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the Grand Palace itself. Even early in the morning, the place is swarming with school groups and tour groups, so it's not a relaxing visit. You can get a map which helps you get your bearings, but it's generally quite a chaotic atmosphere and can be a little confusing to find out what you're looking at.


All the buildings are, quite simply, stunning however. They're very ornate, covered in gold, jewels and brightly coloured painting, and wherever you look there's something to catch the eye. You see Wat Phra Kaew first (the temple), which is incredibly ornate and glitzy, and you can head inside the temple (shoes off first, of course) to see inside, although no photographs are allowed here as it's incredibly sacred.

You then head through the compound to the Grand Palace; I was running out of time and energy at this point (it really was incredibly hot - around 38C), so I didn't see much of this apart from the outside, but the style of the building is very different. It's still stunning, but it's less ornate and more like a very fancy government building (which I guess is exactly what it is!).

At this point, I had to head back to Sawasadee and to Cambodia, but fortunately I knew I had one more afternoon in Bangkok at the end of the week, so could see more of what I missed. I wish I'd seen Wat Arun, Wat Pho and the floating markets while I was in that part of the city, but that'll have to be on the list for next time!

After returning from Siem Reap at 2pm later the next week, I only had one afternoon left in Bangkok before heading back to the UK the next day. To maximise my time (and because I'd had enough of Khao San Road by this point), I'd booked myself a nicer hotel as a treat (around £20/night), closer to the airport in Sukhumvit. This is more of an ex-pat area of town; there's a Tesco Lotus just down the road, and a Skytrain BTS stop around 2 minutes away, which made it very easy for me to explore a different part of the city.

Imm Fusion is a stunning hotel; it has amazing facilities and the staff were very helpful. It has a pool if you have time to use it, and the hotel is themed in quite a spiritual way that I really liked. There's a book next to the bed that enables you to learn a bit about Buddhism (it wasn't preachy, just generally informative), and the rooms were spacious with cable TV and western-style bathrooms. The only gripe I had (and it's a tiny one) was that the air conditioning was so noisy that I couldn't have it on for long periods, but I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere else, so it could just have been mine!

When I arrived here, I'd spent two weeks in South East Asia, but hadn't done any shopping, as I only had a small backpack, and unless I saw something amazing (like the throw I got in Siem Reap!), I didn't want to be carrying it around with me unnecessarily. I'd ditched all my toiletries in Siem Reap, so when I got to Bangkok, I knew I had to visit Chatuchak Market. This used to be just a market for wholesalers, but now tourists have got in on the act, it's a big draw. Markets of any kind are my worst nightmare, but it'd been recommended to me by lots of people, so I figured I might as well go, and I could always leave if I needed to.

The best way to travel there is on the Skytrain BTS; it's mainly used by Thai people for commuting, but it's a tube/monorail that helps you avoid the traffic (which is absolutely mental in Bangkok!). It's two minutes down the road from Imm Fusion (Om Nut stop), and for 40 baht it takes you all the way to Mo Chit, which is where the market is. It takes around half an hour, but it's fully air conditioned, and if you time it right you can get a seat, which makes it a little bit of heaven in the sweaty humidity of the city!

I was pleasantly surprised by Chatuchak Market - it's absolutely gigantic, with narrow, winding corridors packed with market stalls, but it's not too busy, and you're not being clamoured from all sides to buy anything, so I actually had quite a relaxed shopping experience. I had in mind what I needed to get, and the market is split into sections depending on what they're selling, so if you paid attention it was easy to navigate (although I got a bit carried away and spent two hours there, which I didn't intend!) There is a section devoted to animals, which wasn't easy for me as they aren't cared for, and I passed by some cages of some miserable-looking (and some dead) mice and other rodent-type things, and some puppies in a cage that didn't look too happy either. I have to force myself to accept this as part of the culture, but I definitely wouldn't recommend visiting this bit if you can help it (I tried to avoid it, but got lost and stumbled across it).

Overall, I really enjoyed Bangkok. I'm not a city girl, so I probably wouldn't spend any longer than I did there (although consecutive days would be good so I could fit more in), but there's definitely a lot you can do in a short period of time, and on a budget.

My top tip would be to walk if you can (although be prepared, carry water and take breaks if you need it - it's HOT!), and to stay in a couple of different places so you really experience the city. Taxi drivers don't tend to speak English, so write down any addresses and get confirmation emails in Thai as well as English if you can (although you can usually find someone to translate). Make sure you get a taxi with a meter (it can save you a few quid) and learn a couple of phrases in Thai. Hostels and restaurants speak a little English, but if you show them you're trying, you'll get treated a little more nicely!)

Hello - Sawasadee [SA - WA - DEE] ka(f)/kap(m)
Thank you - Kop Khun Ka(f) Kap(m)

I didn't go to any of the sky bars (expensive, but worth it for the views I think), the floating markets, or as many of the temples as I'd have liked, but I got a real sense of what Bangkok's all about, and what people really experience when they first visit this crazy city; it really is a mixture of east and west!