Thailand - Surin and Koh Phangan

During my week in Thailand later on this year, I was lucky to travel to incredibly varied places in a relatively short period of time. You can read about my experiences in Sangkhlaburi and Bangkok here, but now it's time to move on to Surin and Koh Phangan; two very different areas of the country!

Surin

Surin was actually the second stop on my whirlwind tour; after one night in Bangkok, I was picked up by the project coordinator at the crack of dawn (fortunately jet lag meant I hadn't really slept anyway) and ferried 6 hours down the road to Surin. This was the place I was most looking forward to before I arrived. We have several projects based here - teaching, childcare, medical, and at an elephant village - and I was excited to meet the volunteers and see the work that they did.

It was a fairly uneventful drive to Surin; not as stunning as the drive to Sangkhlaburi, but you could certainly see it becoming more rural the further we went. We stopped off in Surin City first, which is bigger than I thought it would be, although still relatively small. I didn't really see much of the town, as the volunteer houses are based around 10 minutes from the actual centre, but what I did see looked nice.

The part of town our volunteers stay in is lovely - it has lots of cute bars and restaurants, and even has a coffee shop built into a camper van! The people in Surin are incredibly friendly; I met a lot of people in my week in Thailand, and none were friendly than those I met here. All the staff at the projects went out of their way to help us, and our volunteers, and I wish I could have spent longer with them.

After a brief stop at the volunteer houses, we headed straight for the elephant village, around a 30 minute drive outside of Surin. This was the bit I was most looking forward to, and it turned out I was right to be so. I'm aware elephant volunteering is controversial, and is certainly something I'm very wary about (I turned down an elephant ride in Cambodia because I didn't think the elephants were treated properly). Fortunately, at this project, I know that all is above board, and the elephants are very happy. The elephants there used to be worked in Bangkok in the tourist trade. They were kept in very bad conditions, and cities are horrendous environments for them as they need to constantly graze to stay alive and healthy. In the elephant village, the elephants are rescued and brought back into a rural area, where they're looked after really well. The volunteers help to collect sugar cane, wash them and walk them down to the river, which provides an income for the village, and ensures the elephants will never be misused.

Our homestay in the village is absolutely stunning; it's in the middle of nowhere, with paddy fields stretching as far as the eye can see. A couple of the elephants stay in the same bit as the volunteers, and from the hammock on the balcony, you can watch them wandering around and feasting on sugar cane. When I was there, I got a cuddle with the friendliest elephant - Pai Lin - got to feed her some sugar cane, then went to explore the area with the volunteers whilst they went kayaking on the river.

I SO wish I could have stayed longer; it really is idyllic, and somewhere I'll be returning to in the future.

We then headed back to the hotel in Surin, which was AMAZING. We stayed at the Maneerote Hotel, which I'd definitely recommend. The rooms were huge, really clean and comfortable and the bathroom was amazing!

The next day, we headed to the other projects, which are all based around Surin City. We visited a school, a childcare centre and the medical centre; they were all amazing, and it was great to see first-hand what our volunteers come and do. I know some may turn their nose up at what they deem as 'voluntourism' but I think if it's done properly and sustainably, then it can only benefit all involved.

Koh Phangan

At the end of my week in Thailand, I was very lucky to be given the opportunity to spend a couple of nights on one of the most popular islands. I'm going to admit I was a little wary about this at first, as it's the home of the Full Moon Party. I'm decidedly not a party person, and was a little worried that I wouldn't be able to avoid them, but this was completely unfounded.

There are a couple of ways to get to and from Koh Phangan; on the way there we flew from Bangkok with Air Asia to Surat Thani, then they organise your transport from there to the ferry, and from the ferry over to Koh Phangan. The whole process took pretty much all day, as our plane was delayed a little, but it was painless and something I'd definitely recommend. I much preferred Dong Mueang airport to the main international one in Bangkok (I'm not going to attempt to spell it...) - it's cheaper and has a lot more options in terms of food and drink! I travelled both domestically and internationally from here, and both times found it nicer than BKK.

When we arrived in Koh Phangan, we were picked up from the ferry port in Haad Rin, and transferred about 15 minutes down the coast to Mac Bay. If you ever visit Koh Phangan, I would 100% recommend that you stay here. It has easy access to the main town and party beach (the resort run their own taxi service), but it's remote and feels like a little piece of paradise. It has a bar and restaurant on-site, which serves breakfast, lunch, dinner and snacks, so you never have to leave if you don't want to. It has a pool about a minutes' walk from the rooms, and its own little private beach!

Meals and drinks are very reasonably priced; if you stick to Thai beer and Pad Thai, you won't spend much more than you would on the mainland. If you opt for the western style dishes that are on offer, you'll spend a little more, but it's definitely worth it. They have pink noodles!!

The rooms are amazing - you can either have a beach hut, or an air conditioned room set about 1 minutes walk from the beach (this is what I had). The bathrooms are western style, and it will take you about 30 seconds to walk down to breakfast in the morning, overlooking the sea.

I got up early one morning and watched a guy raking the sand so it was pristine for those rising later (boy did I feel bad when I went for a paddle and ruined all his hard work!). The beach is shallow right up to a sandbank out at sea (I couldn't tell you the distance, but it took me around 5 minutes to walk to it). This means you can lay in the shallows (the water is warm!) and watch the world around you, or wade further out to sea for a swim. Across the way, you can see Koh Samui - this is only a 30 minute ferry ride away, and definitely worth a visit. Whilst here, you can have a massage, go snorkelling or scuba diving, trek in the hills, or just relax!

Unfortunately, I was only here for 2 nights before I returned up to Bangkok ready for my trip to Cambodia. I was travelling alone this time, and took the budget route - I used the Lomprayah company, as I have friends who had used them before and highly recommended them. You book one ticket, and they ferry you back across to the mainland, then pile you all on a coach ready to make the 6 hour drive back up to Bangkok.

I booked the early departure (8.30am) to make sure I'd be back in Bangkok in time for my flight to Phnom Penh the next day (just in case of any delays), and it was pretty much a painless journey. My one criticism would be that they pile all your luggage on one end of the ferry. This means that, when it comes to the end, all the doors are blocked because everyone is trying to get their luggage, but nobody is really sure where it is. There must have been about 200 bags in a pile, with people whose bags were at the top, stuck at the back of the queue. I had one heartstopping moment where I thought they'd lost my bag - I waiting until the pile had gone, with still no sign of my rucksack, when I discovered they'd thrown some of them through the window onto the jetty outside. Not a problem, but I wish they'd told me!

There was a bit of a wait for the buses (around an hour), which I assume was on purpose as we were all held captive at the various shops and cafes at the port, but for the price I paid (around £15 for the whole journey), it certainly wasn't something to whinge about. If you're on a budget, and looking to get back to Bangkok, this is definitely what I'd recommend. It didn't take much longer than the flight, and was a hell of a lot cheaper!

Next instalment - onwards to Cambodia :)

Nepal

This is a difficult post to write, and one of the reasons I have been putting off blogging for so long.

As I'm sure you're aware, there was a huge earthquake in Nepal on 25th April. It measured 7.8 on the Richter Scale, thousands lost their lives, and many more were injured and left homeless by the devastation. Kathmandu, the capital, was one of the hardest hit areas, and images of fallen buildings and sacred temples flooded the headlines. Remote villages waited weeks for outside help, and many people around the country slept outside for days, as aftershocks rippled and they feared their homes were unsafe.

It was peak climbing season in the mountains; avalanches rocked Everest Base Camp, and 18 climbers lost their lives. Others were stranded at Camp 1, safer than their colleagues and friends at base camp, until helicopters could be organised to transfer them further down the mountain, with avalanches deeming the Khumbu Icefall - the only way down from Everest - impassable.

Although Nepal lies in the heart of the Himalaya, and is prone to tectonic activity, this was the largest earthquake in 80 years. Already one of the poorest countries in the world, it didn't have the money or resources to deal with such a disaster. Fortunately, aid quickly scrambled to their relief, with disaster charities from around the world arriving around the clock to help those in need. Fundraising efforts around the globe raised millions of pounds for various charities, and my faith in humanity was restored.

A second earthquake hit the region just a few weeks later, setting back the relief efforts, and terrifying those already affected. It was a dark time for Nepal, and it is only just beginning to rebuild itself almost two months later.

The reason I'm telling you all of this, is because I was supposed to be flying to Kathmandu on 21st May, less than a month after the earthquake. Those of you who have been following this blog for a while will know of my obsession with Everest, and I have been planning this trip for a very long time. I've had it booked once before, two years ago, when I had to cancel due to a highly unprofessional company, coupled with a lack of funds. I then planned to go in October 2014, but again had to postpone while I saved up a little longer. Needless to say, this was a trip of a lifetime.

When I woke up on Saturday 25th April, and heard the news, my heart sank. Not, I hasten to add, because of my trip, but because I knew how many people would be affected by this. I didn't quite realise the severity at the time, but I had friends and acquaintances out in Nepal, as well as work colleagues, and people I follow on Twitter. I was on tenterhooks the whole day, waiting for news that people were safe, and my sadness deepening as more and more images flooded the news sites.

Although I've never visited, I have read so many personal accounts of Nepal, and had done so much research for my trip, I felt like I had. I felt I knew all the places that had been so heavily affected, and felt deeply for everyone who had died or had been injured. When I realised that there was no hope of my trip going ahead, I was sad more for the missed opportunity to experience the country at its best; not for a cancelled holiday, as these things can always be rearranged. Of course I was disappointed, but it was very easy to see the priorities in life as I scanned Twitter, following those who had been personally affected.

I did allow myself a moment to be selfish, when I feared the insurance company wouldn't compensate me for my trip (they often don't if it's force majeur). Not because of the financial side, but because it meant that I would have to cancel the trip completely rather than postpone, and I would have to wait another few years to visit.

I am also very grateful that I wasn't there at the time, and that no-one I know was injured, or worse.

In the meantime, we fundraised at work (we work closely with partners based in Nepal - I was actually supposed to be visiting them on my trip), and I also set myself a personal fundraising goal, to give to long-term NGO relief efforts, as well as the immediate disaster relief we donated to in the office.

I was very fortunate that Emirates extended their refund policy based on FCO advice, and I now plan to postpone my trip until May 2016, purely because my plan was, and always has been, to visit and trek to Everest Base Camp during the climbing season.

Two months on, Nepal has declared itself safe and ready for tourists. Indeed, it is crying out for them as its main source of income. Frustratingly, the British Foreign and Commonwealth Office is still saying that they advise against all but essential travel to the area, meaning that if British nationals go against this advice, their travel insurance will be invalid. Fortunately, other countries around the world are much more sensible and I would love it, if you can, for you to go. I would go earlier myself if I could - most trekking regions are fit to travel after the monsoon (from September onwards) and lots of places, such as Pokhara and Chitwan, were barely affected. Don't make anyone else lose out because of this dreadful disaster, and don't alter your travel plans. Nepal is still stunning, and with your visit, you'll be doing more good than ever before.

As for me, my walking boots are waiting patiently in a cupboard, my daypack hung on the rack, and my trekking guide sat quietly on the bookshelf. Everest, I'll be with you next summer.



Image credit: Hillary Travels

Sangkhlaburi - Rural Thailand at its best!

On my whistlestop tour of Thailand, Sangkhlaburi was the place that I knew the least about. It's a big part of our Thailand Experience; travellers spend around a week here volunteering in the local community and trekking in the jungle, but it's not big on the tourist map so I went with a completely open mind. I was looking forward to it, but didn't expect it to be amazing.

Boy was I wrong! It was absolutely the highlight of my trip! It's around a 6 hour drive from Bangkok (definitely stop off in Kanchanaburi for lunch on the way!), and after Kanchanaburi it's an absolutely stunning drive into misty mountains that look like they've come straight out of a film set. For the last hour, you're winding up the mountains, with a different, more amazing view the higher you get, surrounded by rubber plantations and mist - it's absolutely stunning. 

Sangkhlaburi is a small town, right on the Burmese border. It's set along the edges of a huge reservoir (40 miles long), and is split into two sides - Thai and Mon. The Mon side is very quiet, with temples and houses and not much more. The Thai side is a little more modern, with a 7-11 and a couple of bars and hotels, but still very basic and pretty. The two sides are joined by a long, wooden bridge across the reservoir, or you can drive around the side. 

I was lucky enough to stay in P's Guest House, right on the edge of the lake. I wish I'd taken a picture of the room, but I wasn't really in there apart from to sleep; I can honestly say it's the nicest place I stayed on the whole trip. It's made up of several villas, or huts, right along the edge of the lake. The rooms are gigantic, with huge beds and amazing, western-style bathrooms. I had the best shower (and even had a couple of little lizards to keep me company). You can see right across the lake, with the mountains to the left, the Mon side of town (with the pagoda glinting in the distance) directly opposite, and the bridge joining the two to your right - both the sunset and sunrise are equally amazing, and definitely worth the early morning.

I got up around 6am, and sat on the steps in front of the lake to watch the sunrise. With the clouds lifting over the mountains, and the pale pinky, purple morning glow, and the temple in the distance, it's one of the most tranquil mornings I have ever had (at least until a Thai tourist came up behind me, complete with iPhone, and asked me to take a selfie of her, then started rabbiting on her phone completely ruining the moment!) 

You can rent kayaks and swim from the jetty at the guesthouse, and also pay for a moped or an elephant trek. I didn't have time for either of these, but I heard good things from people who did. 

There's a bar and restaurant (which I think closes relatively early) on-site, or it's an easy fifteen minute walk into town, where there are a couple of really lovely local restaurants. We went to a restaurant called Toys, where we had a massaman curry, rice and other bits and pieces, which I think came up to around £1-2 per head including drinks! We also visited a bar across the road called The Blue Rock. This is owned by an English guy called Lee - he's really lovely and easy going, and had a good, cheap selection of drinks. I think most tourists in town (fewer than 500 western tourists per year!) end up here or at the Western Bar, and it's a great place to relax after a long day. 

The main reason for my visit was to see the work that our volunteers do when they stay here. Sangkhlaburi has a lot of small communities, who live in the jungle and barely ever leave. They work for the owners of the rubber plantation (for a pittance) and while the men may go into town very occasionally, the women and children never leave. There's no electricity or running water, and no access to education, and so no way for children to break the mould. I was very lucky to go and visit a couple of these communities (Sam Pan Rai and Mai Tew), and whilst the lives are picturesque from an outsiders' perspective, it must be a very hard existence.

We visited in the dry season (and it had been dry for a couple of months); we tried to get to Sam Pan Rai on my first day, and had to turn around half way there because the car wasn't four wheel drive, and so couldn't make it up the slippy, gravelly slope. We'd persevered (and had a couple of Top Gear-esque hairy moments), but it just wasn't going to happen so we had to come back the next day in a different vehicle. The community is completely inaccessible in the rainy season (it's around an hour by car, never mind by foot!) and so they're completely cut off from the outside world for much of the time. 

Our volunteers spend as much time there as possible, helping the children get a basic education. It's not much, but even if they can speak a little English it may be enough for a child to find work in the tourist industry in the future. We're also helping to build a childcare centre for refuge children in the town. It was incredibly rewarding to see the work our volunteers had done; without them, the centre simply wouldn't exist! 

One of the highlights of my visit to Sangkhlaburi, was our drive to the Three Pagodas Pass. This is around twenty minutes from the main town, and allows you to drive right to the Burmese/Myanmar border! You're not allowed to cross it of course, but there's a sign for the standard selfie, and you can look across knowing you can see Burma! The Three Pagodas themselves are also worth a look, and it's definitely worth taking the time out to go here.

My favourite moment, apart from the sunrise over the lake, was driving up through the mountains for the first time, approaching the top and seeing the jungle, river and mountains spread out in front of me. Knowing that, into the distance I was looking at Burma, and closer into one of the most rural areas of Thailand, with some absolutely stunning scenery - well you can't get much better than that!

Thailand and Cambodia in two weeks!

I work for a gap year travel and volunteering company, and was very lucky a few months ago to win a chance to visit some of our projects in Thailand! It was a week long trip, travelling around the country, and as I had some annual leave to use up, I decided to pop over to Cambodia for a week as well!

Most people would have thought it impossible to fit two huge countries into such a short period of time, and would have resigned themselves to one or another, but I like a challenge!

I did wonder if I was being a bit mad, but with some careful planning, I was amazed at how much I managed to fit into the trip. My itinerary was:

Monday 23^rd February:

Arrive in Bangkok at 15.45

Tuesday 24^th Feb:
Head to Surin (on the Cambodian border around a 6 hour drive) to see some of our projects there, including our Elephant and Community project.

Wednesday 25^th Feb:
Still in Surin - visit childcare, teaching and medical projects. Head back to Bangkok at lunchtime, arriving around 6pm.         

Thursday 26^th Feb:
Leave around 7am to Sangkhlaburi on the Burmese border. Another 5-6 hour drive. Visit our building project there, and the Three Pagodas Pass on the border.         

Friday 27^th Feb:
Up early, visiting trekking and a few of the childcare villages (stunning locations and fun just getting there).         
Head back to Bangkok around lunchtime and arrive early evening. 

Saturday 28^th Feb:
Travel to Koh Phangan (plane, bus, ferry) - all day (where lots of our tours go)

Sunday 1^st March:
Explore and relax on Koh Phangan

Monday 2^nd March:
Head back to Bangkok (bus 8.30am – 8.30pm)

Tuesday 3^rd March:
Fly to Phnom Penh, arrive 3.20pm

Wednesday 4^th March:
S21 and Killing Fields

Thursday 5^th March:
Free day in PP – Wats, river, shopping etc.
Overnight bus to Siem Reap (arrive around 5am)

Friday 6^th March:
Arrive Siem Reap early morning – spend the day wandering around local area

Saturday 7^th March:
Angkor Wat

Sunday 8^th March:
Fly back to Bangkok – arrive 12.45pm – spend the afternoon seeing Bangkok! (Last minute shopping!)

Monday 9^th March:
Flight home 13:10 

      As you can see, it's a jam packed itinerary. I only had three days where I wasn't travelling for at least 6 hours, but it was worth it! I didn't feel massively rushed at any point, and while I'd have obviously loved to spend longer in each place, I definitely managed to get a feel of it. 

      The only things I missed out on were a boat cruise in Phnom Penh (and that was only because I almost gave myself heatstroke by being stubborn and walking rather than getting a tuk-tuk) and visiting Ton Le Sap Lake in Siem Reap, which I just didn't have time for. 

       As a two week trip however, I did everything I planned and much more! I had slightly more of a budget as it was a short trip, which meant that I was able to fly between Bangkok, Phnom Penh, then Siem Reap and Bangkok, which saved me some time. I did get an overnight bus between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap however, as it was easy and saved me a nights' accommodation!

      So what's the secret to a jam packed two week trip? Organisation! I planned my accommodation and transport before I went (the only thing I didn't book was one night in Bangkok), and I had an idea of what I was going to do on each day and how to do it. I did my research, and used the knowledge of the locals while I was there to cram as much in as possible, and I concentrated on sight-seeing rather than partying, as I knew a hangover would ruin even the best laid plans!

       Of course I would do it in a longer period if I could get that off work, but lots of people are in a similar situation, and I'd definitely recommend it! I wouldn't say it's a relaxing holiday, if that's what you're after, but it's certainly an amazing, fascinating, whirlwind trip of a lifetime, and I don't feel I missed out at all! 

      Stay tuned for more in-depth info about my trip!

      Top Tips:

• Research! Make sure you know what you want to see, prioritise each activity, and plan an itinerary so you have as much time as possible in each place
• Book in advance. Knowing where you'll be staying each night and how you're getting from one place to the next puts your mind at rest on a short trip, and means you'll spend less time in the evening faffing around on the internet, and more time taking in the local area
• Don't be disappointed if something doesn't go to plan. You can't control everything, so if you have to drop something from the itinerary that's ok - move onto the next!
•  Pack light - you can get laundry done in most hostels, so you don't need to carry two weeks' of clothes with you
• Splash out for flights if you can - less time travelling means more time in each location!

2014 in Pictures!

Celebrating a friend's 22nd!

Celebrating my Grandma's 70th!

Work BBQs and leaving dos.

Travelling to Krakow

Spending NYE with some amazing old friends

Sunsets in Brighton

Spending time with the besties

Trips to Birmingham

Friends by the sea

Seeing the sights in Poland

Baby brother

Saying hi to Liz at Ascot

Birthday Surprises!

Cocktails!

Brighton sunshine

Nights out

More Krakow!

Appreciating life!

                         

Friends

                           

Baking!

Selfies

Being weird!

Countryside

Grandparents

Silly pics with the mini brother

Ice cream!

Capri

Arty photo walks

Balloons!

Walks

Chocolate doggies!

Dancing in the rain!

Christmas Parties

Sisters

Fwends ;)

Champagne (of course...)

Italy

More selfies!

Parties

Cuties

More baking!

Dog walking

Family

Thunderstorms

Funny signs

Books and sunshine

Memories

Birthdays and travel

Drunken nights and skinny-dipping

Mum and her dog

No caption needed

Being fancy

Bonjour Le Tour!

Good times!

Swimming in the sea

Holidays

Sisters

Amazing food

Moustaches

Autumn

Halloween

Siblings

Africa!

Impromptu meals out

Doggy cuddles

Christmas sing-song

Photobombs

Wine

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