Phnom Penh

After spending a week in Thailand with our partners over there, it was time for my holiday! I was a little apprehensive about spending a week alone in Cambodia, but excited at the same time.

When I was planning my trip, I couldn't decide whether to use the second week to see more of Thailand, or whether to head over to Cambodia. I decided on the latter option mainly because I'm a history geek, but also because it's easier to cover Cambodia in a short period of time. There are obviously bits I want to go back and explore further, but I've done most of the things that were top of my list, whereas I'll need a little longer in Thailand.

Because I had such a short amount of time to spare, I planned every day as much as possible before I left. On my return to Bangkok, I explored the Grand Palace before heading to Dong Muang airport for my Air Asia flight to Phnom Penh at 3.20pm.

As I mentioned in my previous post, I was a big fan of Dong Muang airport. It's small, easy to navigate, but has some great options for food and drink that won't break the bank. It's where all Air Asia flights fly from, as well as most domestic flights, and I got there early enough to spend some time watching the planes before I departed. For some reason (as I'm terrified of flying), this always help reassure me before a flight.

The journey from Bangkok to Phnom Penh took just over an hour, and I have a lot of great things to say about Air Asia. I plan to do a separate post on them later (I'm aware my trip has already taken me a few months to blog, but in my defence I didn't have a laptop for a while...) but I'd highly recommend flying with them.

On arrival into Phnom Penh airport, I headed to immigration to apply for my visa. It's an incredibly simple process - $30 and a passport picture gains you access to the country. I also had to fill in a quarantine form on arrival, which I found fairly pointless. Surely I could just lie if I had any medical issues?

I had a few dollars with me just in case I got stuck in the airport, but made sure to take some more out before heading into the city, as the last thing I wanted was to be caught short. The main currency in Cambodia is the US dollar, and they only accept relatively recent notes. They will charge you in USD, but don't be surprised to receive change back in Riel, the local currency. You can't buy much with this, other than water and snacks, but it's always good to have some handy. You can also use it to pay tuk-tuk drivers.

Whilst the tuk-tuk is the way to get around in Cambodia (unlike Thailand where it's mainly used as an attraction for tourists), I wanted to gain confidence first, and to gain my bearings, so I used a metered taxi to find my hostel. The taxi rank is signposted, and there are airport staff there to help tell the driver where to go. I found English to be spoken to a much better standard in Cambodia than in Thailand, so fortunately I didn't have to struggle for words. My friend Chris lived there for a year, so I'd got some key phrases from him before I left, but I'm ashamed to say I didn't say anything more than please and thank you the whole time I was there. English is widely spoken, and the Khmer language is much more tricky to say than Thai!

Accommodation

Deciding where to stay was one of my biggest problems in Phnom Penh. I'm not a big party-goer, especially when travelling alone (I prefer not to drink when this is the case) so I decided not to stay on the riverfront. This is where most of the cheap hostels are, but I thought I wouldn't see much of the culture there, and it's less safe as it's obviously a magnet for tourists. Similarly, as I was travelling alone for the first time, I still wanted to meet people and didn't want to be in the middle of nowhere.

After going backwards and forwards a few times with suggestions from Chris (who lived in Phnom Penh), I decided on the Envoy Hostel. I trawled through the reviews on all the hostel websites, and this regularly had good ones, and the place looked clean and cheerful.

Envoy started as a hostel in Armenia, and has recently spread to Georgia and Cambodia. The staff are incredibly helpful and the building itself is stunningly modern and clean. For Phnom Penh, as I wanted to meet people preferably, I booked a dorm room for the only time during my entire trip. I chose a female 6 bed dorm, purely because I thought it might mean I met people that were on a similar wavelength to me, and the price was good at around $10/night. I was in Phnom Penh for two nights in total, but three full days as the third night was to be spent on an overnight bus to Siem Reap.

Unfortunately, (or fortunately for some) the hostel was very, very quiet while I was there. This meant that I had the entire dorm room to myself for the entire time I was there. It was great to get a big, essentially private, room to myself, but didn't exactly help with the meeting people part! The hostel communal area was perhaps the only downside - there were some sofas in reception and a few tables in the kitchen area, but not really space where people could relax and meet each other. There was also a roof terrace, but as the hostel was so quiet, I never saw anyone else up there.

I got chatting to a couple of girls in reception on the first night, but they were leaving. The only other people I saw whilst I was there was a mother and her young son, and a few groups of boys. I think had I been there longer, I'd have met more people as I was chatting to some others on my last day, but for two nights I wasn't too bothered to be alone; particularly as I'd just spent a frantic week meeting lots of different people. It was quite nice to relax, and I do enjoy my own company, but I'd perhaps have felt a bit more confident had I been with others.

The hostel is a bit out of the way, and it's still quite new so not many taxi/tuk-tuk drivers know it yet. Fortunately, all the streets in Phnom Penh are labelled numerically, so it didn't take them long to find it. On the first night, I was completely exhausted, so I stocked up on food from the supermarket just down the road, and used the (free!) Wi-Fi to catch up on the comings and goings of the world, and generally just to relax. I also managed to wash my clothes for the first time - the laundry service was super cheap (you pay by the kilo) and it was so nice to have some non-sweaty clothes for the first time in a week! I'm still unsure on the etiquette of giving hostels your underwear to wash, so I washed them in the shower just in case. Not quite the same, but it did the job haha!

The Killing Fields and S21

I'd planned to visit the Killing Fields and S21 museum the next day, as this was my main reason for visiting Phnom Penh. Everything else would be a bonus. It's really easy to book a tour of these, although I went through the hostel. Envoy have a great system where you can put your name down for a tour, and others can do the same so you can share the cost of a driver. Sadly, I just missed the first tuk-tuk which filled up before I went to reception, so I did end up on a tour alone as the hostel was so quiet. Fortunately I had budgeted for this, and it meant I could go at my own pace, but it would have been nice to share it with someone. In the busier periods, this is a great system, and something I'd recommend doing.

Chris had told me to do the museum first, before heading out the the Killing Fields, but most tours do it the other way around. I do agree with Chris' reasoning for this (the museum gives you the history so you can understand what you're seeing at the Killing Fields), but as I'm a history geek and had done some research anyway, it didn't make much difference to me.

I'm going to do a separate post about Tuol Sleng and Choeng Ek (the museum and Killing Fields) as this post is already long and I have a lot to say about it. It's absolutely incredible what the Khmer people have suffered in such recent history, and I felt incredibly emotional at the end of the day. I wanted time to reflect on what I'd seen, so headed back to the hostel rather than into town, and spent the rest of the evening there. There are some lovely restaurants within a short walk from the hostel, and I went to the Blue Pumpkin, a prolific cafe all around the main areas of Cambodia, which serves ice cream, cake, pizza and soft drinks. More than that, the decoration is white and minimalist, with amazing air conditioning, and it gives you a huge sense of calm and relief from the frenetic city outside.

The Royal Palace and Wat Phnom

The next morning, I checked out of the hostel after breakfast (they provide you with an egg, fruit and toast for free), but left my bag there as I was due to get the overnight bus to Siem Reap that night. I headed into town to visit everything else there is to see in Phnom Penh, with the main aims being the Royal Palace, Wat Phnom and the river. There were always tuk-tuks outside the hostel, with rides into town at a very reasonable price ($5 for about a 10 minute trip), but I had all day to kill. I looked at the map, and the Palace looked really close to the hostel (pretty much just down the road and no more than a 30 minute walk), so I decided just to saunter there instead. My plan was to walk there, visit the palace and the national museum; then to have lunch and get a tuk-tuk over to Wat Phnom. I then wanted a boat trip on the river and to grab some dinner before heading back to the hostel to get my bag and then my bus to Siem Reap.

That didn't happen, for the most part. I walked to the Palace, but had massively underestimated that kind of distance in the heat and humidity. It was really difficult to cross the road in some places, I was constantly hassled by tuk-tuk drivers, and by the time I arrived I was a sweaty, dehydrated mess.

I sat down for a few minutes and downed a bottle of water before heading inside, which certainly helped a little. The Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda is much nicer to visit than the Grand Palace in Bangkok. When I was there, it was very quiet and it felt much less like I was being herded round like a sheep. The benefit of being alone was that I could casually lean places and listen in to the various tour groups without seeming obvious/paying for it. There were a few English and French guides around, so I milled from place to place so I could listen, before wandering around on my own. The buildings are absolutely stunning, and it's definitely worth a visit.

I spent a couple of hours here, then headed over to the National Museum, which is only a short walk down the road. By this time I was feeling really hot and bothered as I'd been outside all day, so was glad of the shade of the building in the museum. It was really interesting, and great to read more about the ancient history of Cambodia, rather than just its gruesome past, but at this point I needed food and air conditioning, so I left after around 45 minutes in search of lunch.

I'd had some great recommendations for restaurants from Chris before I left, and I'd seen on the map that the Laughing Fatman (yes, that's really its name) was close by on Street 172. Sadly, I hadn't really got a grasp of where I was on the map and, after half an hour of wandering around in circles, I ducked into the nearest Blue Pumpkin for some relief, as I was starting to feel ill at this point. The cold drink and air conditioning helped - I managed to locate myself on the map (I was too close to the river and needed to head away from it), and so decided to try again to find the restaurant. On the way, I passed another place Chris had told me about - Friends. This is both a restaurant and a shop; they train local people to cook and make crafts so they have a trade and a future, and the proceeds go to help this. The shop was really close, so I had to nip in and buy a few gifts.

I eventually found my way to the Laughing Fat Man, and it was worth all the hassle. I wasn't blown away by traditional Khmer food, so I treated myself to a veggie burger. The staff were lovely and the location was great; I was the only person in there, so didn't really get an atmosphere, but I can see that it would have had one if the town was busier. By this point, I'd also realised that I was close to giving myself heat stroke - I'd been on my feet in the hot sun since around 9am because I was too stubborn to get a tuk-tuk, and as a result felt sick and dizzy, and needed to stay out of the sun for a while. I stayed at the restaurant and read my book for a while, then decided to get a tuk-tuk across town to see Wat Phnom.

This is a really cool temple on top of a hill, close to the river and with gardens surrounding it. I climbed to the top and had a look around, then wandered around the gardens for a while. I still felt pretty ill by this point however, so I decided that, rather than wait in the sun to do a boat cruise at sunset, or to head to the busy Russian markets, I'd done most of the things I'd wanted to in Phnom Penh, and it was best to head back to the hostel to rest.

My bus to Siem Reap wasn't until much later that night. I'd booked the latest one so that I could sleep as much as possible. I also wanted to get to Siem Reap as late as possible so I didn't have to hang around before I checked into my guesthouse there. This meant that I had a bit of a wait before meeting my prearranged tuk-tuk into town, but it was probably a good thing as it meant I was out of the sun for the rest of the day. It also meant I could sort my foot out; I'd given myself a blister from walking in the heat, right on the bottom of my foot. This had developed into a cut throughout the day, and kept opening up as I was constantly on my feet. As you have to take your shoes off to enter a building pretty much everywhere in Cambodia, I decided that bleeding all over the floors wasn't particularly polite, so I bandaged it up tightly. Although it needed to air, this also kept it clean from the dust and grime of the city.

The hostel were very kind, and allowed me to hang around in reception until I headed into town around 10pm, ready for my bus to Siem Reap at 11pm. More on that in my next (epic!) post.

So what did I think of Phnom Penh? Honestly, although I liked it, I didn't really feel comfortable the entire time I was here. I've travelled before, and been to some pretty rough places, but there was something about Phnom Penh that I couldn't put my finger on. There's some pretty desperate poverty here, and tourists are easy game. I was never threatened while I was there, and was certainly never close to being, but I also didn't feel safe alone in the evenings. This stopped me doing some of the things I'd have liked to. This may have been just me being overly cautious (although I didn't feel like this in Bangkok or Siem Reap), but I'd rather be safe than sorry.

Having said that, I'd definitely visit again, this time with a friend so I could get out and explore some of the places I didn't this time around.

Top Tips

• If travelling in a short period of time, PLAN your days so you get the most out of it
• Take a whole day for S21 and the Killing Fields. It won't take all day, but it means you can do it at your own pace without rushing
• Take a tuk-tuk. Even for just a 5 minute ride. You're providing income for somebody, and you won't make yourself ill.
• You don't really need any more than 3-4 days here
• Do a boat cruise on the Mekong. This is the one thing that I missed that I regret not doing.
• Choose your accommodation carefully, depending on what you want out of your trip. I loved Envoy, but if you're alone in the quiet season, you probably want to stay somewhere a little more central
• Try as many restaurants as you can. I missed out on Warong Bali, and I also didn't visit much on the riverfront. The Vegetarian is also supposed to be a great place to eat. 
• The Blue Pumpkins are an absolute haven

Sangkhlaburi - Rural Thailand at its best!

On my whistlestop tour of Thailand, Sangkhlaburi was the place that I knew the least about. It's a big part of our Thailand Experience; travellers spend around a week here volunteering in the local community and trekking in the jungle, but it's not big on the tourist map so I went with a completely open mind. I was looking forward to it, but didn't expect it to be amazing.

Boy was I wrong! It was absolutely the highlight of my trip! It's around a 6 hour drive from Bangkok (definitely stop off in Kanchanaburi for lunch on the way!), and after Kanchanaburi it's an absolutely stunning drive into misty mountains that look like they've come straight out of a film set. For the last hour, you're winding up the mountains, with a different, more amazing view the higher you get, surrounded by rubber plantations and mist - it's absolutely stunning. 

Sangkhlaburi is a small town, right on the Burmese border. It's set along the edges of a huge reservoir (40 miles long), and is split into two sides - Thai and Mon. The Mon side is very quiet, with temples and houses and not much more. The Thai side is a little more modern, with a 7-11 and a couple of bars and hotels, but still very basic and pretty. The two sides are joined by a long, wooden bridge across the reservoir, or you can drive around the side. 

I was lucky enough to stay in P's Guest House, right on the edge of the lake. I wish I'd taken a picture of the room, but I wasn't really in there apart from to sleep; I can honestly say it's the nicest place I stayed on the whole trip. It's made up of several villas, or huts, right along the edge of the lake. The rooms are gigantic, with huge beds and amazing, western-style bathrooms. I had the best shower (and even had a couple of little lizards to keep me company). You can see right across the lake, with the mountains to the left, the Mon side of town (with the pagoda glinting in the distance) directly opposite, and the bridge joining the two to your right - both the sunset and sunrise are equally amazing, and definitely worth the early morning.

I got up around 6am, and sat on the steps in front of the lake to watch the sunrise. With the clouds lifting over the mountains, and the pale pinky, purple morning glow, and the temple in the distance, it's one of the most tranquil mornings I have ever had (at least until a Thai tourist came up behind me, complete with iPhone, and asked me to take a selfie of her, then started rabbiting on her phone completely ruining the moment!) 

You can rent kayaks and swim from the jetty at the guesthouse, and also pay for a moped or an elephant trek. I didn't have time for either of these, but I heard good things from people who did. 

There's a bar and restaurant (which I think closes relatively early) on-site, or it's an easy fifteen minute walk into town, where there are a couple of really lovely local restaurants. We went to a restaurant called Toys, where we had a massaman curry, rice and other bits and pieces, which I think came up to around £1-2 per head including drinks! We also visited a bar across the road called The Blue Rock. This is owned by an English guy called Lee - he's really lovely and easy going, and had a good, cheap selection of drinks. I think most tourists in town (fewer than 500 western tourists per year!) end up here or at the Western Bar, and it's a great place to relax after a long day. 

The main reason for my visit was to see the work that our volunteers do when they stay here. Sangkhlaburi has a lot of small communities, who live in the jungle and barely ever leave. They work for the owners of the rubber plantation (for a pittance) and while the men may go into town very occasionally, the women and children never leave. There's no electricity or running water, and no access to education, and so no way for children to break the mould. I was very lucky to go and visit a couple of these communities (Sam Pan Rai and Mai Tew), and whilst the lives are picturesque from an outsiders' perspective, it must be a very hard existence.

We visited in the dry season (and it had been dry for a couple of months); we tried to get to Sam Pan Rai on my first day, and had to turn around half way there because the car wasn't four wheel drive, and so couldn't make it up the slippy, gravelly slope. We'd persevered (and had a couple of Top Gear-esque hairy moments), but it just wasn't going to happen so we had to come back the next day in a different vehicle. The community is completely inaccessible in the rainy season (it's around an hour by car, never mind by foot!) and so they're completely cut off from the outside world for much of the time. 

Our volunteers spend as much time there as possible, helping the children get a basic education. It's not much, but even if they can speak a little English it may be enough for a child to find work in the tourist industry in the future. We're also helping to build a childcare centre for refuge children in the town. It was incredibly rewarding to see the work our volunteers had done; without them, the centre simply wouldn't exist! 

One of the highlights of my visit to Sangkhlaburi, was our drive to the Three Pagodas Pass. This is around twenty minutes from the main town, and allows you to drive right to the Burmese/Myanmar border! You're not allowed to cross it of course, but there's a sign for the standard selfie, and you can look across knowing you can see Burma! The Three Pagodas themselves are also worth a look, and it's definitely worth taking the time out to go here.

My favourite moment, apart from the sunrise over the lake, was driving up through the mountains for the first time, approaching the top and seeing the jungle, river and mountains spread out in front of me. Knowing that, into the distance I was looking at Burma, and closer into one of the most rural areas of Thailand, with some absolutely stunning scenery - well you can't get much better than that!

Bangkok on a budget with limited time!

                                                                                                                       

Time Spent - 5 nights, 1 full afternoon, 1 full morning
Modes of transport - taxi, sky train, coach, walking
Places stayed - Sawasadee Banglampu Inn (Khao San Road); Imm Fusion (Sukhumvit)

I recently spent two weeks in Thailand and Cambodia (with work and on holiday), and Bangkok was something of a base while I was there. I was never here for an extended period of time (I think 14 hours was my maximum), but I made the most of every second, and it's definitely possible to get a real feel of Bangkok on a budget - both monetary and time!

On my arrival into Thailand, and the subsequent nights when I returned from travelling to Surin, Sangkhlaburi and Koh Phangan, I stayed at the Sawasadee Banglampu Inn just off Khao San Road. There are three Sawasadee Inns in a small area; they're cheap (around £6 per room per night), very centrally located (30 seconds from Khao San Road, 15 minutes walk from the Grand Palace and the temples), clean and the staff are friendly. I didn't have breakfast here (6am is too early to eat!) but they have a breakfast every morning of fruit and bread etc., and it's only 190 baht (around £4) which isn't too bad. It's definitely the domain of the backpacker, and can get a little loud in the evenings, but overall I enjoyed my stay here, and would stay here again if I were to visit Bangkok.

  
(Pictures from Sawasadee site - I was generally too tired to take my own!)

I had a single room to myself (decent sized double bed, air conditioning, good shower and western-style toilet), although they're more commonly twin or triple rooms, and it's all you need for a good base on Khao San Road. It's close enough so that you can nip out to the many bars, restaurants and street stalls on the backpacker street, but far enough away that you don't get any of the loud music or the crowds (the noise at night tends to come from people returning from partaking in said entertainment).

On my first night in Bangkok, I was met by a member of staff from our partner organisation out in Thailand, and he took me out to Khao San Road for dinner and a couple of drinks (I didn't have more than one; jet lag + no sleep on the plane would have had me at risk of making a fool of myself, not a good first impression!). We went to a restaurant on a street parallel to Khao San (nicer, not as full of bars and stalls), then to the Silk Bar for a few drinks as it's cheap and cheerful. We sat on the balcony here, and it's a great place to people-watch! When I finally had to call it a day around midnight, it took me approximately four minutes to fight my way through the crowds and into bed - that's not a bad result!

I headed over to Surin overnight the next day, but returned to Sawasadee the next night, where I had a free evening before heading to Sangkhlaburi at 6.45am the next morning. As I had such a busy trip, and such early mornings for the most part (and because I don't really drink), I didn't really take part in the nightlife of Khao San Road (it's not really my scene), but from the people I spoke to, there are lots of great places to go out. I stuck to what I do best - food and shopping - and also spent an hour just wandering around all the little streets nearby. I didn't feel unsafe at all, and apart from one instance of a stall-holder grabbing me to try and make me look at his goods, I wasn't hassled. I'd expected it to be like African markets, where you're accosted from all sides, but because there are so many people on Khao San Road, the stall holders don't need to put so much work in - people are literally fighting to get to them! It was a refreshing change, and meant I could shop and actually buy things (something I rarely do in Africa, because I don't like being bullied into buying).

There are a couple of 7-11s on Khao San Road, a Boots, McDonalds, Subway and Burger King for those who are really desperate, but if you can, try things from the multitude of food stalls and restaurants lining the road. I steered clear of the scorpion, but the pad thai, chicken skewers, fruit (mango, watermelon and pineapple) and coconut ice cream are perfectly safe, and often a refreshing treat as you fight the humidity and 30C evening heat!

On my return from Koh Phangan at the end of the week, I checked into Sawasadee for the fourth time, and finally had a free morning the next day, before heading to Cambodia, to explore a bit more of the city! I'd tried to visit the Grand Palace a couple of evenings before, but it closes at 3.30pm, so forgoing a lie in I got up at 7am, and grabbed a quick breakfast from 7-11 before heading out to see as much as possible before I had to head to the airport at lunchtime.

The Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha were highest on my list, so I decided to head here first, then see if I had time for any of the temples afterwards. It's only around a 15 minute walk from Sawasadee (although I was glad it was early morning), despite having to fight your way across eight lanes of traffic, with drivers who don't seem to obey any road rules when it comes to pedestrians.

It was on my walk here that I was scammed for the only time during my trip, and I was livid because I knew exactly what was happening and I was powerless to stop it. I've travelled enough to know something odd when I see it, and around 5 minutes from the palace there was a woman with around 50 pigeons crowded around her. Suspecting something fishy, I tried to cross the road, but with eight lanes of traffic and no pedestrian crossing, it simply wasn't going to happen. I decided to just keep my head down and walk straight through the crowd, but she was having none of it. She threw pigeon seed around my feet so the pigeons descended, then forced the seed in open bags into my hands, so that half of it fell on the ground. She then motioned me to throw the rest of it in the opposite direction, so the pigeons would leave. Knowing I'd been well and truly had, I did as she said and tried to walk off, but she was having absolutely none of it; she and her friend circled me demanding 150 baht for the seed (around £3) and clearly weren't going to leave me alone. Luckily, I had around 40 baht (80p) in my pocket, meaning I didn't have to get my purse out, and I shoved it into her hand before marching away from her.

It put me in a bad mood for the rest of the morning; not for the money (even I don't complain about something as little as 80p), but because of the scam itself. I'd recognised it for what it was, and still been unable to avoid it. Fortunately, it was tame compared to others I've seen, and no harm was done, but for a first-time traveller (or anyone) it's not a particularly pleasant experience. Had she been selling something worthwhile (lots of people were selling cold drinks or crafts), I might actually have given her more money, but having it forced out of me left a sour taste in my mouth.

Despite the bad start, I thoroughly enjoyed my time at the Grand Palace and the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. You have to dress very conservatively as it's a very religious site; I thought I'd done ok wearing a dress that covered my shoulders and the tops of my arms, and almost went down to my knees, with leggings covering almost to my ankles, but it still wasn't good enough and I had to get a skirt to wear when I was there (leggings don't count as covering up apparently). I definitely wasn't the only one, and it's very quick and easy (they take a 200baht deposit, which you get back as soon as you hand the skirt or scarf back), but if you want to avoid it, err on the side of caution.

I'd given myself a couple of hours there to make sure I had time to get to the airport at lunchtime, but you could definitely spend longer there. The heat was relentless, even at 10.30am, so take it slowly and take lots of water with you. The cost for entry is 400 baht (around £8), and involves entry to both the Temple of the Emerald Buddha and the Grand Palace itself. Even early in the morning, the place is swarming with school groups and tour groups, so it's not a relaxing visit. You can get a map which helps you get your bearings, but it's generally quite a chaotic atmosphere and can be a little confusing to find out what you're looking at.


All the buildings are, quite simply, stunning however. They're very ornate, covered in gold, jewels and brightly coloured painting, and wherever you look there's something to catch the eye. You see Wat Phra Kaew first (the temple), which is incredibly ornate and glitzy, and you can head inside the temple (shoes off first, of course) to see inside, although no photographs are allowed here as it's incredibly sacred.

You then head through the compound to the Grand Palace; I was running out of time and energy at this point (it really was incredibly hot - around 38C), so I didn't see much of this apart from the outside, but the style of the building is very different. It's still stunning, but it's less ornate and more like a very fancy government building (which I guess is exactly what it is!).

At this point, I had to head back to Sawasadee and to Cambodia, but fortunately I knew I had one more afternoon in Bangkok at the end of the week, so could see more of what I missed. I wish I'd seen Wat Arun, Wat Pho and the floating markets while I was in that part of the city, but that'll have to be on the list for next time!

After returning from Siem Reap at 2pm later the next week, I only had one afternoon left in Bangkok before heading back to the UK the next day. To maximise my time (and because I'd had enough of Khao San Road by this point), I'd booked myself a nicer hotel as a treat (around £20/night), closer to the airport in Sukhumvit. This is more of an ex-pat area of town; there's a Tesco Lotus just down the road, and a Skytrain BTS stop around 2 minutes away, which made it very easy for me to explore a different part of the city.

Imm Fusion is a stunning hotel; it has amazing facilities and the staff were very helpful. It has a pool if you have time to use it, and the hotel is themed in quite a spiritual way that I really liked. There's a book next to the bed that enables you to learn a bit about Buddhism (it wasn't preachy, just generally informative), and the rooms were spacious with cable TV and western-style bathrooms. The only gripe I had (and it's a tiny one) was that the air conditioning was so noisy that I couldn't have it on for long periods, but I haven't seen that mentioned anywhere else, so it could just have been mine!

When I arrived here, I'd spent two weeks in South East Asia, but hadn't done any shopping, as I only had a small backpack, and unless I saw something amazing (like the throw I got in Siem Reap!), I didn't want to be carrying it around with me unnecessarily. I'd ditched all my toiletries in Siem Reap, so when I got to Bangkok, I knew I had to visit Chatuchak Market. This used to be just a market for wholesalers, but now tourists have got in on the act, it's a big draw. Markets of any kind are my worst nightmare, but it'd been recommended to me by lots of people, so I figured I might as well go, and I could always leave if I needed to.

The best way to travel there is on the Skytrain BTS; it's mainly used by Thai people for commuting, but it's a tube/monorail that helps you avoid the traffic (which is absolutely mental in Bangkok!). It's two minutes down the road from Imm Fusion (Om Nut stop), and for 40 baht it takes you all the way to Mo Chit, which is where the market is. It takes around half an hour, but it's fully air conditioned, and if you time it right you can get a seat, which makes it a little bit of heaven in the sweaty humidity of the city!

I was pleasantly surprised by Chatuchak Market - it's absolutely gigantic, with narrow, winding corridors packed with market stalls, but it's not too busy, and you're not being clamoured from all sides to buy anything, so I actually had quite a relaxed shopping experience. I had in mind what I needed to get, and the market is split into sections depending on what they're selling, so if you paid attention it was easy to navigate (although I got a bit carried away and spent two hours there, which I didn't intend!) There is a section devoted to animals, which wasn't easy for me as they aren't cared for, and I passed by some cages of some miserable-looking (and some dead) mice and other rodent-type things, and some puppies in a cage that didn't look too happy either. I have to force myself to accept this as part of the culture, but I definitely wouldn't recommend visiting this bit if you can help it (I tried to avoid it, but got lost and stumbled across it).

Overall, I really enjoyed Bangkok. I'm not a city girl, so I probably wouldn't spend any longer than I did there (although consecutive days would be good so I could fit more in), but there's definitely a lot you can do in a short period of time, and on a budget.

My top tip would be to walk if you can (although be prepared, carry water and take breaks if you need it - it's HOT!), and to stay in a couple of different places so you really experience the city. Taxi drivers don't tend to speak English, so write down any addresses and get confirmation emails in Thai as well as English if you can (although you can usually find someone to translate). Make sure you get a taxi with a meter (it can save you a few quid) and learn a couple of phrases in Thai. Hostels and restaurants speak a little English, but if you show them you're trying, you'll get treated a little more nicely!)

Hello - Sawasadee [SA - WA - DEE] ka(f)/kap(m)
Thank you - Kop Khun Ka(f) Kap(m)

I didn't go to any of the sky bars (expensive, but worth it for the views I think), the floating markets, or as many of the temples as I'd have liked, but I got a real sense of what Bangkok's all about, and what people really experience when they first visit this crazy city; it really is a mixture of east and west!

Thailand and Cambodia in two weeks!

I work for a gap year travel and volunteering company, and was very lucky a few months ago to win a chance to visit some of our projects in Thailand! It was a week long trip, travelling around the country, and as I had some annual leave to use up, I decided to pop over to Cambodia for a week as well!

Most people would have thought it impossible to fit two huge countries into such a short period of time, and would have resigned themselves to one or another, but I like a challenge!

I did wonder if I was being a bit mad, but with some careful planning, I was amazed at how much I managed to fit into the trip. My itinerary was:

Monday 23^rd February:

Arrive in Bangkok at 15.45

Tuesday 24^th Feb:
Head to Surin (on the Cambodian border around a 6 hour drive) to see some of our projects there, including our Elephant and Community project.

Wednesday 25^th Feb:
Still in Surin - visit childcare, teaching and medical projects. Head back to Bangkok at lunchtime, arriving around 6pm.         

Thursday 26^th Feb:
Leave around 7am to Sangkhlaburi on the Burmese border. Another 5-6 hour drive. Visit our building project there, and the Three Pagodas Pass on the border.         

Friday 27^th Feb:
Up early, visiting trekking and a few of the childcare villages (stunning locations and fun just getting there).         
Head back to Bangkok around lunchtime and arrive early evening. 

Saturday 28^th Feb:
Travel to Koh Phangan (plane, bus, ferry) - all day (where lots of our tours go)

Sunday 1^st March:
Explore and relax on Koh Phangan

Monday 2^nd March:
Head back to Bangkok (bus 8.30am – 8.30pm)

Tuesday 3^rd March:
Fly to Phnom Penh, arrive 3.20pm

Wednesday 4^th March:
S21 and Killing Fields

Thursday 5^th March:
Free day in PP – Wats, river, shopping etc.
Overnight bus to Siem Reap (arrive around 5am)

Friday 6^th March:
Arrive Siem Reap early morning – spend the day wandering around local area

Saturday 7^th March:
Angkor Wat

Sunday 8^th March:
Fly back to Bangkok – arrive 12.45pm – spend the afternoon seeing Bangkok! (Last minute shopping!)

Monday 9^th March:
Flight home 13:10 

      As you can see, it's a jam packed itinerary. I only had three days where I wasn't travelling for at least 6 hours, but it was worth it! I didn't feel massively rushed at any point, and while I'd have obviously loved to spend longer in each place, I definitely managed to get a feel of it. 

      The only things I missed out on were a boat cruise in Phnom Penh (and that was only because I almost gave myself heatstroke by being stubborn and walking rather than getting a tuk-tuk) and visiting Ton Le Sap Lake in Siem Reap, which I just didn't have time for. 

       As a two week trip however, I did everything I planned and much more! I had slightly more of a budget as it was a short trip, which meant that I was able to fly between Bangkok, Phnom Penh, then Siem Reap and Bangkok, which saved me some time. I did get an overnight bus between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap however, as it was easy and saved me a nights' accommodation!

      So what's the secret to a jam packed two week trip? Organisation! I planned my accommodation and transport before I went (the only thing I didn't book was one night in Bangkok), and I had an idea of what I was going to do on each day and how to do it. I did my research, and used the knowledge of the locals while I was there to cram as much in as possible, and I concentrated on sight-seeing rather than partying, as I knew a hangover would ruin even the best laid plans!

       Of course I would do it in a longer period if I could get that off work, but lots of people are in a similar situation, and I'd definitely recommend it! I wouldn't say it's a relaxing holiday, if that's what you're after, but it's certainly an amazing, fascinating, whirlwind trip of a lifetime, and I don't feel I missed out at all! 

      Stay tuned for more in-depth info about my trip!

      Top Tips:

• Research! Make sure you know what you want to see, prioritise each activity, and plan an itinerary so you have as much time as possible in each place
• Book in advance. Knowing where you'll be staying each night and how you're getting from one place to the next puts your mind at rest on a short trip, and means you'll spend less time in the evening faffing around on the internet, and more time taking in the local area
• Don't be disappointed if something doesn't go to plan. You can't control everything, so if you have to drop something from the itinerary that's ok - move onto the next!
•  Pack light - you can get laundry done in most hostels, so you don't need to carry two weeks' of clothes with you
• Splash out for flights if you can - less time travelling means more time in each location!

Dear Diary #1

Hi all! It's been a while since I last posted, which I'm putting mainly down to a lack of tools. My trusty Dell PC, which I've had for around 7 years and has spent three months in dusty Mali, has finally given up the ghost, so I just have my computer at work at the moment.

I've also been having issues with pictures disappearing from old blog posts, which is annoying, but entirely my fault (taking shortcuts only creates more work in the future!) It's time-consuming to fix, and annoys me because it's messy, so please bear with me while I get chance to go through and fix all the old posts.

January is a crazy busy month at work, so any extra time I spent here was for work rather than blogging, and I've only just caught up with myself really. I have a lot of plans for the next few months, so I've decided to keep a semi-regular diary post on here, as it will all be travel-related one way or another!

A few months ago at work, I was lucky enough to win a trip to Thailand, to visit some of our projects! We were deciding on dates for a while, so flights were booked not long ago, and I'm actually heading off on Sunday! How exciting! Thailand has never been particularly high up my radar (not that I don't want to go of course!) but I talk about it everyday at work, and my itinerary is already sorted so I have nothing to worry about there. As my flights were already included, I thought it would be a shame not to see more of South East Asia while I was there, so I decided on a week in Cambodia.

My colleague Chris lived in Cambodia for seven months, and talks about it all the time at work, so he lured me in. I'm also a history geek, so the fact that Cambodia has so much recent history, that most people don't know about, sealed the deal! I'm spending 8 days in Thailand (Bangkok, Surin, Bangkok, Sangkhlaburi, Bangkok, Koh Phangan), then flying with Air Asia over to Phnom Penh. I'll then spend a couple of days there seeing the Killing Fields and S21, before getting the overnight bus to Siem Reap for Angkor Wat. I'll then fly from Siem Reap to Bangkok for my flight home.

My main worry for this trip is that I'm absolutely terrified of flying, yet somehow I seem to have ended up with an itinerary that includes 5 flights (I'll be flying from Bangkok to Koh Samui as well). Well at least it'll prepare me for Nepal in May I guess! I'm also a little apprehensive about doing Cambodia completely alone, not for the safety aspect (I've done enough travelling to be relatively streetwise), but just for the enjoyment aspect. Hopefully there'll be others in my situation that I can tag along with.

As well as getting ready for that, my trip to Nepal in May is coming round incredibly quickly, and I'm by no means fit enough to trek to Everest Base Camp at the moment! With that in mind, I gritted my teeth and forked out for 8 personal training sessions at my local gym. I just don't know enough to get fit on my own; I stick to the treadmill until I get shin splints, and get so bored staring at the numbers I just give up. I've only had two sessions so far, but they've been amazing! Amy, my trainer, is absolutely lovely, and has already incorporated weight and strength exercises into my training that would never have occurred to me. I'm going to have to work hard once I get back from Thailand, but it's definitely doable.

http://beautifulplacestovisit.com/tag/south-everest-base-camp/

Since Christmas, I've also had some lovely nights with my friends, and am missing my friends and family back up north a little. One highlight of this week was spending Valentines Day with my friends Danielle and Holly. We went to the cinema, then for dinner at Pizza Express which I love!

Danielle and Holly went to see 50 Shades of Grey, but I refused out of principle. I'm not squeamish about the genre, but the book is so dreadfully written and anti-feminist that I can't bring myself to have anything to do with it. Instead, I went to see the Theory of Everything, which I absolutely loved, and now has to be up there with my favourite films (alongside others such as the Imitation Game and the King's Speech). Eddie Redmayne and Felicity Jones are amazing, and David Thewlis was thoroughly underrated, as he's not mentioned in any of the reviews I've read.

This is short and sweet, as I have to head off to a personal training session now, but keep your eyes peeled in a couple of weeks for my updates on Thailand and Cambodia - I'm sure it'll be worth the wait!